Botanist and Barrel + Strada: Behind the scenes of a cider + food pairing

By: Laurie Assid, author, real-estate maven, lover of books, writing, fine food, wine and cider, pets, hiking, kayaking and all things Ashevillian.

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Asheville is known for its high-quality and natural resourcefulness when it comes to food, beer, wine, and cider among other things. My partner and I had the distinct pleasure of experiencing the combining of two perfect examples of these qualities during a recent pairing of the classic take on Italian by Strada Italiano restaurant and the more modern interpretations of Botanist and Barrel’s wine-like cider concoctions.

Chef Anthony Cerrato hails from my partner’s home state of New Jersey. The restaurant’s website discusses in detail Cerrato’s long experience of cooking in the kitchen with his mom and other female relatives, soaking up the extensive history and culture of his Italian roots. When he opened Strada he vowed to not only reiterate the classic, simple, fresh, and authentic ingredients from his youth, but also to provide gluten-free options for those with gluten issues or sensitivities.

Botanist and Barrel whose farm is located in Cedar Grove north of Hillsboro specializes in small-batch, avant-garde, fruit wines, sours, and ciders. Founded in 2017 by brother and sister team, Lyndon and Kether Smith, B and B sources their ingredients from within 200 miles of their farmhouse winery whenever possible. With three chefs on staff and years of wine, cider, cooking, and farming experience on their side, the sky appears to be the limit in regards to this cidery’s potential.

Both my partner and I are recent transplants to the area and have relished experiencing the immense variety and quality of the many local restaurants and breweries. I’ve discovered a new favorite hobby in sampling the myriad of ciders in the area. Though my partner enjoys beer as well as wine and cider, I gravitate towards the latter two.

So, when a notice came across our screens of a pairing of good Italian food and cider, I was hooked. We had previously gone to a tasting of Botanist and Barrel at Cork & Craft in West Asheville and loved the nuance and crispness of the offerings. Strada had been on our list of restaurants to try for some time, so the pairing was perfect.

Seated upstairs with the low, fresco-like ceiling, we eagerly glanced over the menu. Within a few minutes, Lyndon Smith and Amie Fields arrived, full of information about wines and ciders, farming, history, and of course, great pairings with food. After brief introductions and explanations regarding the history of Botanist and Barrel, the feasting commenced.

The beginner course consisted of Formaggio e Marmellata artisan cheese and preserved fruit spreads with ciabatta on the side. Gorgonzola was served with apricot jam, fontina with tomato preserves and provolone with the famous local Lusty Fig mustard. Paired with these delicious savory and sweet combinations was ”Sparkle of My Eye”, a house-blend of cider apples conditioned in bottles. Naturally sweet, wine-like, and soft, the fruit sweetness paired perfectly with the strong cheeses and complemented the spreads.

Our second course arrived with arugula salad, Calimyrna figs, local apples, toasted pine nuts and local, honey Dijon mostarda. The pine nuts and apples added a nice crunch along with the tanginess of a light, tart vinaigrette. The cider pairing, “Apples on the Hops” added a lemony note, paired with the freshness and grassiness of a light sauvignon-blanc like texture. Canadian Red Vine Hops sourced from North Carolina lent a smooth, dry finish to the palette.

The third course consisted of Tuscan duck paired with the most mouthwatering goat cheese-stuffed figs I’ve ever tasted. (We took an out-of-town guest back to Strada the next week and had to do a repeat on those figs!) The duck was tender and hearty, the accompanying farro – lush, and the “Fusion Pomegranate” cider delightful. Combining pomegranate juice, organic estate whole blueberries grown on the farm property, Appalachian grapes, and Botanist and Barrel’s own blended cider, the notes are floral, exotic, slightly tart with an almost Rose’ like finish. The nose fills with the pomegranate and blueberry flavors.

Next, came the creamiest (not wet!), delicately flavored risotto and mushroom combination I’ve ever tasted. Earthy, nutty, warm, the risotto was so delightful I almost wanted to wrap up in it as well as eat it! Combined with dehydrated, fried, AND sautéed oyster mushroom, the variety of texture and taste was subtle but noticeable. And the “Collusion Blueberry Brand Barrel” was our favorite. Unfortunately, this concoction was a small batch run as an experiment and its highly-laborious process with over a pound of estate grown berries per bottle means this may or may not be available again. It was a smooth, red, fruit-wine, but it wasn’t too sweet and didn’t leave a cloying taste on the tongue like some fruit wines have a tendency toward.

Last, came a smoked salt and caramel panna cotta. Now, to be fair, I have a bit of a texture issue and am not a big fan of custards, flans, etc. My partner, however, thoroughly enjoys them and I have to admit the combination of the salt crunch with the very sweet caramel and small strawberry was a pleasant touch for the end of the meal. “Collusion Tequila Barrel” added touches of sweetness with mango, papaya, and agave, ending with a light, warm touch.

Each course was preceded by Amie’s knowledgeable and enthusiastic discussion of the process, time, and pride the estate practices with each run of cider. Her knowledge of wines, the processes of brewing, and the great choices she and Chef Cerrato delivered to combine sweet, savory, and organic offerings for the tongue were a delight. We were fortunate enough to bring home a bottle each of the “Fusion Pomegranate Cider” and the “Collusion Blueberry Brandy Barrel” and have savored every drop.

I don’t claim to be a trained food critic. I’m just a regular person who knows high-quality, natural, conscientious preparation when I see, feel, hear, or taste it. Strada Italiano should definitely be on everyone’s list for a true, authentic Italian dining experience.

And if you can’t visit Botanist and Barrel’s farm, they ship and have multiple vendors carrying their ciders and fruit wines throughout North and South Carolina. Even if you aren’t a cider enthusiast, you will be pleasantly surprised at the richness and nuance of the many flavors available.